Sunday 29 September 2013

Egri Bikaver

This is the second week in a row that I have had to make a selection based on something other than grape variety.

I'm less disappointed this week, as Egri Bikaver stills sounds quite exotic. Previously known as 'Bull Blood of Eger', it comes from northern Hungary and has a good legend to explain the name.

The town of Eger was under attack, so the story goes, in 1552 from the army of Suleiman the Magnificent. The defending soldiers were encouraged and fortified with good food and drink, to keep them committed to the city's defence. So much so that rumours spread among the attacking Turks of bulls blood being added to their wine. How else could the locals defend so well? So well, in fact, that the siege ended with the attackers going home.

I have no idea if any of that is true, but the wine that today bears the name is certainly robust.

This particular version, week E (2013),  is 2009 Egri Bikaver, 'Bulls Blood', Bolyki (Eger). £14.95 from Vinoteca, Farringdon.


Traditionally made from the local variety, Kadarka, it must today contain at least three of the 13 permitted varieties. This one has Kekfrankos, Merlot and Blauburgunder and weighs in at 13.5% abv.

It is dark and quite full bodied. Many describe it as 'tarry' and I can see why.

I quite enjoyed the label, too. It has a familiar image of a bull showing the cuts of meat that can usually be taken from the animal, however, instead of 'Sirloin, Rump, Topside, etc', it shows the grape varieties that can make their way into the bottle.

Simple, but imaginative, given the name of the blend.

The WSET taught me the 'systematic approach to wine tasting' (SAT) and I have been good enough not to bother you too much with this so far, but I think the time has come.

The wine is clear and bright with a deep ruby colour and a narrow watery rim. This wine has legs (and she knows how to use 'em: ZZ Top, 1985). The nose is clean. Medium intensity aromas of dark cherry, black fruits, tar, vanilla and spice. On the palate the aromas appear again, with ripe, grippy tannin and surprisingly noticeable acidity. There's oak and concentrated fruit which lingers into a long finish.

All of which means I like it. 

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