Sunday 6 October 2013

Furmint

Second week in a row, an entry from Hungary. This one is produced by the Royal Tokaji Wine Company set up by Hugh Johnson, a very real expert whose bottles I am not worthy to uncork, after the fall of communism to 'bring back to international acclaim the wines of one of history's most renowned regions'. If that's what Mr Johnson, OBE, calls Tokaj, I will not argue.

I have tasted this wine before and enjoyed it very much, so my white F selection was a lot simpler than either the white D or red E.

Having declared that I am something of a fan of sweet (some would say dessert) wines, on the 'Why Late Harvest?' page, I had planned to select a Tokaji this week, but probably a delicious 5 or 6 puttonyos version. More of that in two weeks' time, when we reach H.

This wine, week F (2013) is Royal Tokaji Furmint 2011. Bought at Laithwaites shop, Vinopolis, £10.

Furmint is a variety that buds earlier than many others, but ripens later. This gives it a long growing season and allows the development of complexity and concentration of its flavours. Citrus fruits, especially oranges and lime, but also pears and ripe apples all feature in the mix. There's some smokiness, spiciness and quite a rich feel. It is naturally high in acid and that provides it an ability to age, although some say this is more relevant to its use in sweet wines.

This one is dry and I think it makes a good alternative to, and a rest from, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, or any of the other safe names you may choose.

Although 88% of Furmint is Hungarian, this wine has cousins from Austria, Croatia, Romania, Slovakia and Slovenia, as it seems to like growing in countries that end in 'ia'. I haven't tasted any other producer's dry Furmint, whether Hungarian or not, and would be keen to do so. It would be interesting to find out how versatile this grape really is, especially as we will meet again shortly, when it will be the minor partner in a wine I am very much looking forward to uncorking. 

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