Sunday 13 October 2013

Garnacha

Back into more familiar territory this week. Garnacha, as it is known in Spain, is one of the handful of grapes typically referred to as 'international varieties'. This is because they crop up all over the place and have great general appeal.

Garnacha, which the French (and almost everyone else, with the exception of the Sardinians) call Grenache, is often used in a blend to add alcohol. It needs heat to ripen, but when it gets nice and warm it producers loads of sugar and, therefore, pushes the abv up to impressive levels. Oz Clarke describes Garnacha in his truly excellent book, Grapes & Wine, as 'the wild, wild woman of wine, sex on wheels and devil take the hindmost', and that's quite a reference. When I first read that I realised what a quiet life I must have lead. So far. I would have probably have blathered on about red fruits and the like, but that's why (I imagine) Mr Clarke is invited to more dinners than I've had hot, er, oh.

Anyway, this is week G (2013) and the wine is La Garnacha Salvaje del Moncayo 2011. 13.5% abv. It is a Vino de la Tierra Ribera del Queiles from Majestic, £9.99 (£7.99 each for two bottles). Another great label.


Grown on stony soils, 810 metres above sea level, the wild bush vines are 55 years old. These little nuggets are interesting because the age of the vines means that these are not over-vigorous plants producing heavy crops of flavourless fruit, but members of the older generation taking care to direct their energies efficiently. (Old bull, young bull, if you know the story.) The altitude tempers the excesses of the summer heat and gives the grapes a chance to cool at night, leading to a gentler ripening and more interesting flavours.

The vineyard at Moncayo is in the mountainous northern end of the Ebro valley, more famous as the home of Rioja.

It is a medium bodied, fresh berry type of wine that has some interesting tobacco-leaf notes and a minerality that may, or may not, come from the stony soil.

It is a good value and enjoyable wine. Majestic suggest drinking it with barbequed red meats or spicy chorizo. We drank it with lamb's liver & bacon.

In case you were wondering, the Sardinians know it as Cannonau.

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