Sunday, 29 December 2013

Riesling

I have been looking forward to week R (2013). As you may have read, my site is called Late Harvest for a couple of reasons, one of which is my liking for dessert wines and especially the unfortified variety that attain their sweetness from very ripe grapes rather than a fermentation that has been stopped by the addition of high strength alcoholic spirit.

Riesling is a grape that can produced wines like this and, in the right hands, the results can be remarkable. Germany is known as the most famous source of these wines and I had expected to choose something from there, however, I came across this South African wine almost by accident in M&S.

Once again I have been surprised to find a wine of the week in Marks & Spencer, this time close to home rather than in London, who seem able to supply a diverse range at keen prices.


Week R (2013) is Riesling, Noble Late Harvest, 2011 from Paul Cluver, Elgin, SA.
M&S £14.99 for 37.5 cl.

It is lovely. It must be. Mum-in-law asked for more the day after we tasted it. It is a golden yellow colour and shines beautifully in the glass. It smells, and tastes, of apricots, honey and subtle spices.

In the mouth it feels full and luscious and the intensity of the flavours is impressive. The mouth-filling character comes mostly from the level of residual (unfermented) sugar which at 214 g/ltr is pretty high. A dry wine will typically have fewer than 4g/ltr and it is not surprising that with so much sugar left that could have been converted to alcohol, it is only 10.5% abv. This much sweetness could produce a sickly, cloying drink, however, the acidity levels are also good (10 g/ltr) and this balances the sugar very nicely.

The grapes are grown on a relatively small site and represent only 5% of the estate's output. The annual production is 625 cases (i.e. 7,500 half-bottles) and so I feel fortunate to have picked this up without ever having heard of it before. That's what I had hoped my 52 wines in 52 weeks exercise would achieve; discoveries.

I found after tasting it that this is an award winner and has been listed by Tim Atkin MW as one of his top 12 sweet wines and he knows lots more than me. He does this for a living.


I had been gearing up to explain a couple of German terms: Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, but having happily stumbled upon this South African gem I will let you do your own research.

Happy New Year to you all.

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