Sunday 16 March 2014

Chenin Blanc

Although I have crossed the Loire on a number of holidays, I have never stopped and explored. This is a serious omission and one that I hope to address in the not too distant future. Apart from the great chateaux, stunning countryside and traffic-free roads (compared to the South-East of England) there are a number of very interesting wines from all parts of France's longest river.

From the central vineyards in the East, where Sancerre and it's neighbours produce great wines from Sauvignon Blanc right through to the Pays Nantais, famed for it's high acid and shellfish-friendly Muscadets, the range is extensive. Reds, whites, dry and sweet, sparkling and still, they can all be found.

Around the town of Anjou is a region that produces a wide variety of styles. Key amongst them are wines made from one of the world's most versatile grapes: Chenin Blanc.

Week C (2014) is Loupart, Vouvray AOC, 2011. £13.99 Naked Wines. It is a dry wine.

The One, who has great taste in all things (she married me), places off-dry Vouvray on her list of favourite wines and although I doubt we have yet shared a bottle of Coteaux du Layon, I am sure that would be well received too. That one is a sweet wine, by varying degrees.

This wine is 13% abv, but doesn't fee like it. It is fruity, with a mix of citrus, apple and stone fruits. There is enough acidity to make it crisp but not enough to make the drinker wince. The maker stresses that it will develop with age, but there is no reference on his current website that refers to Vouvray. Curious.

The grapes are grown on a plateau of limestone, locally known as Tuffeau, a rock mined to provide building materials for the great houses I mentioned earlier. The mining has created a large number of caves that have been used for all manner of uses from living in to, more interestingly to us, maturing wines as the temperature inside remains very stable throughout the year.

Chenin Blanc also goes by a number of pseudonyms. In France it can be called Pineau de la Loire and South Africa, Steen. It is also grown in California and it's international appeal is probably due to its naturally high acidity that makes it possible to grow in warm climates, where it will ripen fully but retain good balance.

This dry version is good, but there are so many similar wines with which it has to compete that I think I will agree with The One and favour the off-dry style as it provides a more distinctive character.

No comments:

Post a Comment