Sunday, 30 March 2014

Encruzado

Our search for interesting wines, based on a never-ending circular walk through the alphabet of grape varieties (or similar) has this week lead us to Portugal. We've been to the country before, in weeks L (2013) and Q (2013), but not to the Dao region.

The region has to emerged from a long, over-regulated environment where regulations gave the co-ops a monopoly by insisting all grapes were processed by them. Since this has been relaxed, over the last thirty or so years, methods have modernised and wines improved. I only know this through book-learning as I have not been a student of the vine in any part of the world long enough to claim having spotted this through personal experience. Nonetheless, it is within this context that wineries such as the producer of this week's wine have emerged.


Week E (2104) is Quinta do Perdigao, Branco 2012. £12.15 The Sampler.

'Quinta' is is the Portuguese equivalent of the French Domaine or Estate and this one is a small, family run business that was established in 1999. They produce organically grown grapes on seven hectares, including one white variety: Encruzado.

 The grape is not widely found outside the Dao region and is often used there as a blending partner to other varieties such as Malvasia and Verdelho, but is becoming more frequently seen as a single varietal, such as this wine.

Perdigao devote one of their seven hectares to Encruzado from which they produce around 5,000 bottles a year with the whole process from vine to bottle taking place on-site.

The personal care taken in production is well rewarded as the result is a medium intensity lemon yellow/gold wine, with aromas of citrus fruits, peaches and pears. I found the pear most noticeable in the finish, along with evidence of the French oak in which it had matured and from which the wine gained a rounded and smooth feel. The producer's website explains, rather charmingly, that their wines are 'educated' in French oak although I don't know if this is as a consequence of website translation.

I like the wine and I like the presentation. The front label is taken up with a painting entitled 'Jardim Efemero' (Ephemeral Garden)  by Vanessa Chrystie, who is both the vienyard's 'artist in residence' and the producer's wife. The previous vintage had 'Cheeky Chickadee' (a bird resembling a Great Tit) by the same artist this would appear to support the philosophy that can be found on the home page of the website:

'Wine is an art form! Going hand-in-hand with painting, music, poetry, architecture...Where we search to find the perfect balance'.

The back label, on the other hand, stretches the idea of balance to breaking point by suggesting the wine be drunk 'as an aperitif or with 'cheese, salads, seafood, sushi and sashimi, Italian cuisine, curry, meat and fish dishes, desserts, fruit pies, and creme brulee'. 

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