There is a debate in wine circles about the best type of closure to use when sealing the contents into a bottle. Traditionalists tend to favour cork, which allows a minute amount of oxygen to enter the bottle and help with development of complex flavours, but has the disadvantageous risk of the wine being spoiled by 'cork taint' should the cork be faulty or unclean, whereas others prefer the screwcap, or 'Stelvin', closure which is airtight and keeps younger, fruitier wines fresher, but denies the wine its breathing space in which to develop.
I have not received many death threats throughout my life, but did on one occasion when I booked myself and one of my good friends and regular tasting partners into a seminar on wine faults and the role that different closures can play. This was at the London International Wine Fair which we habitually attend to keep abreast of the state of wines from across the world and to taste as many new examples as is a good balance between possible and polite. These are long days, but the seminar (sponsored by a cork producer, so guess which side of the fence the presenter was sitting) felt even longer. Shortly after we were presented with a deliberately undrinkable sample to demonstrate the evils of 'reduction', my friend leaned across and whispered in my ear that he had decided that I should die at his hand.
I am still looking over my shoulder, but not all of the time. One time when perhaps I should have was yesterday morning when 'The One' had asked me to polish an unreachable window in our living room to the same level of clarity and sparkle that I like to achieve when polishing a wine glass. I used a ladder. On the way up there was no problem. On the way down (when I should have looked) gravity acted on me as you would expect when foot and rung fail to make a connection. It passed through my mind before I hit solid wood floor that I may have spared my friend a lengthy prison sentence, however, the damage is limited to a fractured radial head. (This falls into the general category of 'broken arm' and is not to be confused with a split in the great band from Abingdon.)
I cannot resolve the Stelvin vs cork debate, but this I do know; It is easier to remove a screwcap with one hand than to wield my waiter's friend whilst wearing a sling. As luck would have it, what we find sealing this week's bottle is the former.
Week I (2014) Borgo Selene, Bianco. 2013. Terre Siciliane IGP. Vinoteca, Farringdon £7.95.
This is an equal blend of two Sicilian varieties. Inzolia, which qualifies my selection for this week, is grown mostly on the Western side of the island and is used in the production not only of dry white wines, but also the sweet fortified Marsala, and Catarratto the island's most widely planted variety.
Inzolia is also grown in Tuscany and Calabria under the name Ansonica, whilst Catarratto takes its name with it when it travels to Emilia-Romagna.
This is not an expensive wine and so our expectations should be of a fresh, crisp and refreshing drink rather than anything more complex. And once our remaining usable hand has done its job, we are not disappointed.
Some floral aromas, but mostly fruit aromas of apple and pear. Clean and dry to finish it does the job very well. 11.5% abv.
The grapes come from the hilly Trapani province of Western Sicily and were harvested in October before being fermented in stainless steel for ten days and then resting on their lees for two months before bottling, to add a little texture and depth.
Selene is the Greek goddess of the Moon and the use of her name is a reference to the influence the ancient Greeks had on Sicily, including the introduction of viticulture, for which we should be grateful.
I have not received many death threats throughout my life, but did on one occasion when I booked myself and one of my good friends and regular tasting partners into a seminar on wine faults and the role that different closures can play. This was at the London International Wine Fair which we habitually attend to keep abreast of the state of wines from across the world and to taste as many new examples as is a good balance between possible and polite. These are long days, but the seminar (sponsored by a cork producer, so guess which side of the fence the presenter was sitting) felt even longer. Shortly after we were presented with a deliberately undrinkable sample to demonstrate the evils of 'reduction', my friend leaned across and whispered in my ear that he had decided that I should die at his hand.
I am still looking over my shoulder, but not all of the time. One time when perhaps I should have was yesterday morning when 'The One' had asked me to polish an unreachable window in our living room to the same level of clarity and sparkle that I like to achieve when polishing a wine glass. I used a ladder. On the way up there was no problem. On the way down (when I should have looked) gravity acted on me as you would expect when foot and rung fail to make a connection. It passed through my mind before I hit solid wood floor that I may have spared my friend a lengthy prison sentence, however, the damage is limited to a fractured radial head. (This falls into the general category of 'broken arm' and is not to be confused with a split in the great band from Abingdon.)
I cannot resolve the Stelvin vs cork debate, but this I do know; It is easier to remove a screwcap with one hand than to wield my waiter's friend whilst wearing a sling. As luck would have it, what we find sealing this week's bottle is the former.
Week I (2014) Borgo Selene, Bianco. 2013. Terre Siciliane IGP. Vinoteca, Farringdon £7.95.This is an equal blend of two Sicilian varieties. Inzolia, which qualifies my selection for this week, is grown mostly on the Western side of the island and is used in the production not only of dry white wines, but also the sweet fortified Marsala, and Catarratto the island's most widely planted variety.
Inzolia is also grown in Tuscany and Calabria under the name Ansonica, whilst Catarratto takes its name with it when it travels to Emilia-Romagna.
This is not an expensive wine and so our expectations should be of a fresh, crisp and refreshing drink rather than anything more complex. And once our remaining usable hand has done its job, we are not disappointed.
Some floral aromas, but mostly fruit aromas of apple and pear. Clean and dry to finish it does the job very well. 11.5% abv.
The grapes come from the hilly Trapani province of Western Sicily and were harvested in October before being fermented in stainless steel for ten days and then resting on their lees for two months before bottling, to add a little texture and depth.
Selene is the Greek goddess of the Moon and the use of her name is a reference to the influence the ancient Greeks had on Sicily, including the introduction of viticulture, for which we should be grateful.
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