Sunday 4 May 2014

Jaen

In Portugal they grow many grapes. There are 82 varieties permitted in the production of Port, 30 of which are 'recommended' in the Duoro region decree 413/2011.

This week we have chosen a wine that features three of them and one that doesn't even make the long list.

Week J (2014) Quinta do Correio Tinto. Dao DOC 2011. Vinoteca, Farringdon. £9.25.

Made by Quinta dos Roques and marketed under a brand that translates to 'Postman's Estate', this one comes from the Dao valley a little further south than its arguably more famous neighbour. The valley is based on sandy granite soils, around 500m above sea level.

The grapes concerned are: Jaen 60%, Touriga Nacional 25%, Alfrocheiro 10%, Tinta Roriz 5%, and it is the third of these that shouldn't find its way into the fortified wine for which this country is so rightly renowned.

It tips the scales at 13.5% abv and so is relatively light, compared to what can be produced in this part of the world. It is brightly acidic, demonstrating the benefit of blending as Jaen can be light in both acid and tannin, but it does have a lively red fruit aroma.

It has not seen any oak and does not have great complexity. I can imagine some friends, who favour new world fruit-bomb reds, thinking it a little tart and not just for the colour of her shoes.

Synonyms abound as Jaen is known as Mencia, in Spain where Tinta Roriz is also better known as Tempranillo. Touriga Nacional is staunchly Portuguese and needs no other name and Alfrocheiro can also be found signing in as either Alfrocheiro Preto or Pe de Rato.

The elbow? Thank you for asking. Not too bad, but it makes typing difficult. Apparently I do usually use both hands.

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