Sunday 11 May 2014

Koshu

Asked to suggest a list of wine producing countries most people would be unlikely to include Japan. Given the production volume is around 1% of that from France, this is not surprising, but Japan is still more productive than 15 of the top 40 producers (by volume).

There are many varieties, but only one is really considered the signature Japanese grape. That is Koshu, a pink skinned variety that developed its individuality over hundreds of years, having first arrived from the Caucasus along the Silk Road.

Week K (2014) Soryu Koshu, 2010. Amathus £21.35

Most of Japan's prefecture have grape growing regions, but 95% of Koshu is grown in the prefecture of Yamanashi, to the West of Tokyo, itself once known as Koshu and from where the grape takes its name.

The climate in Yamanashi is dominated by the monsoon, which brings both heavy rainfall (no, really) and high humidity, neither of which are particularly conducive to wine production. To address this, vines tend to be grown on high trellises using a technique known here as tanazukuri but in other parts of the world as tendone, to avoid fungal diseases by lifting the grapes that grow beneath the vine canopy into the more freely circulating air.

The excess water together with the tendency of growers to maximise yields can leave the grapes without the character and qualities that are necessary to produce a quality wine. However, careful producers are capable of producing good wines, and this week we have one of those.

It is a pale, almost colourless, with hints of green but bright and inviting. The aroma is more intense than I had expected with attractive floral notes.
These aromas appear again on the palate, but are backed with more stone-fruit, peachy flavours and some lemon-lime citrus touches.

It is 11% abv, light, fresh, dry and clean tasting with well-balanced acidity. I am tasting it as an aperitif and it works well, however, if there was any Sashimi to hand I would be ready to tuck in.

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