Sunday 1 June 2014

Nero d'Avola

I knew that Calabrese was a type of broccoli, but it turns out that it is also three grape varieties, a type of sausage and a horse. In fact, so I have discovered, it is a name that can be used for anything from Calabria.

We are back in Italy, so don't expect anything to be straightforward, and the one of the three grapes we are interested in this week is Nero d'Avola, which doesn't come from Calabria, but Sicily. Incidentally, the other two are Sangiovese and Canaiolo, neither of which is particularly Calabrian either. I like Italy.

Week N (2014) is Terra Firma, Nero d'Avola, Terre Siciliane, IGT, 2012. £7.99 Uncorked

The grape has been grown in the Eastern side of Sicily for centuries. It is tempting to think of mandolins at this point with Marlon Brando, his cheeks stuffed with cotton wool, saying 'now you come to me and say "Don Corleone, give me justice".......' or another of those great lines, but this would be mistaken. Not only for the obvious reason that, if people like the Godfather did still exist, it would be unwise to be disrespectful, but because the man responsible for producing this wine is not (as far as I know) connect to the mafia, but a Canadian MW who lives in England with a name that I suspect comes from somewhere else: Michael Palij.

According to the Winetraders the producer's website, care has been taken to produce a good value and good quality Nero d'Avola by blending grapes grown at altitude with those grown at lower levels. This allows the grapes from higher up to contribute levels of acidity that those from the lower levels may lack, but those from below providing the rich, plummy fruit.

Even before we get the screwcap off there is enough of interest in this bottle to illustrate why wine can be such an interesting subject.

However, although I do enjoy the academic aspects of my chosen hobby, what I really enjoy is getting the stuff in the glass and finding out what it looks,smells and tastes like.

Well, this one is a rich ruby colour (it's name means 'black from Avola') and smells of ripe fruits like plums and cherries. It tastes much the same and has enough tannin to make it interesting, medium acids and is very easy drinking, despite being a weighty 13.5% abv. Uncorked call it a delicious mid-week drinker and I wouldn't argue with that. For the price (£7.99) I would happily add this to my regular wine list, if I had such a thing.

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