Either way you look at it Tannat is still tannaT. It's the little things like that, that make life enjoyable, for me at least. But wordplay aside, Tannat is not generally known for being whimsical. In fact, it is more famed for being something of a tough customer.
Tannat and tannin are close, both phonetically and physically. The grape has a reputation for producing wines with prominent and sometimes harsh tannins and this has been handled in a number of different ways by winemakers seeking to tame the beast. Blending with other varieties is common and ageing can mellow the juice, but one technique now widely used in Bordeaux and elsewhere was first developed by a vigneron in Madiran, Patrick DuCournau, in 1991, specifically to make Tannat more approachable. That technique, micro-oxygenation, involves pumping controlled amounts of oxygen through the fermenting must, or sometimes maturing wine, in quantities and for durations of the producers choosing. Either over or under done, oxygenation can lead to faulty wine with various off-flavours but the technique is now well understood after a near quarter century of use and producers who know their onions can avoid their wines smelling like them.
Week T (2014) is Reserve Des Tuguets, Madiran. 2010. £11.99 Tesco.
It is at the purple end of ruby and not particularly pronounced in aromas. What is there is dark, brambly, blackberry type fruits with a hint of oak ageing.
On the palate the same fruits come through, with a bit more blackcurrant. There is a fair bit of tannin and it is reasonably smooth, but still quite astringent. The tannins for which Tannat is famous have been tamed by blending with two red Cabernet grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The latter of these is grown extensively in the Loire valley and it gives a light, aromatic style of red wine and so is well matched with the harder edged Tannat.
At 13% abv it is fairly typical of modern wines and the alcohol is well integrated with the primary fruit flavours. The finish is a little bitter and has some earthy, rustic (a popular term when describing Madiran) flavours.
This bottle sports a sticker proclaiming a bronze award at the Decanter Wine Awards and I wouldn't disagree with that, but at £11.99 it is competing with a number of wines that are more immediately enjoyable. This is pleasant, but the earthy tones, for my taste, take the edge off the whole experience. It is good, well made and could not be described accurately as bland, but will not feature on my regular buys list.
Although Madiran is the French home of Tannat it is now considered to be the national variety of Uruguay, following its introduction by settlers from the Basque country. Those of you who have been following the football World Cup may enjoy the idea of a wine known for its bite being held in such high regard in that part of the world. Those who haven't may need to Google 'Suarez'.
Tannat and tannin are close, both phonetically and physically. The grape has a reputation for producing wines with prominent and sometimes harsh tannins and this has been handled in a number of different ways by winemakers seeking to tame the beast. Blending with other varieties is common and ageing can mellow the juice, but one technique now widely used in Bordeaux and elsewhere was first developed by a vigneron in Madiran, Patrick DuCournau, in 1991, specifically to make Tannat more approachable. That technique, micro-oxygenation, involves pumping controlled amounts of oxygen through the fermenting must, or sometimes maturing wine, in quantities and for durations of the producers choosing. Either over or under done, oxygenation can lead to faulty wine with various off-flavours but the technique is now well understood after a near quarter century of use and producers who know their onions can avoid their wines smelling like them.
Week T (2014) is Reserve Des Tuguets, Madiran. 2010. £11.99 Tesco.It is at the purple end of ruby and not particularly pronounced in aromas. What is there is dark, brambly, blackberry type fruits with a hint of oak ageing.
On the palate the same fruits come through, with a bit more blackcurrant. There is a fair bit of tannin and it is reasonably smooth, but still quite astringent. The tannins for which Tannat is famous have been tamed by blending with two red Cabernet grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The latter of these is grown extensively in the Loire valley and it gives a light, aromatic style of red wine and so is well matched with the harder edged Tannat.
At 13% abv it is fairly typical of modern wines and the alcohol is well integrated with the primary fruit flavours. The finish is a little bitter and has some earthy, rustic (a popular term when describing Madiran) flavours.
This bottle sports a sticker proclaiming a bronze award at the Decanter Wine Awards and I wouldn't disagree with that, but at £11.99 it is competing with a number of wines that are more immediately enjoyable. This is pleasant, but the earthy tones, for my taste, take the edge off the whole experience. It is good, well made and could not be described accurately as bland, but will not feature on my regular buys list.
Although Madiran is the French home of Tannat it is now considered to be the national variety of Uruguay, following its introduction by settlers from the Basque country. Those of you who have been following the football World Cup may enjoy the idea of a wine known for its bite being held in such high regard in that part of the world. Those who haven't may need to Google 'Suarez'.
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