Sunday, 10 August 2014

Xinomavro

Acid black may sound like the name of a 1970's prog-rock band but it also a literal translation of the name of the Greek grape, Xinomavro. It is not grown anywhere else so this is a good wine to be trying on our journey of discovery.


Week X (2014) Thymiopoulos Xinomavro, Noussa. 2012. M&S £10.50

It is a medium intensity, bright ruby colour and smells of plums and raspberries with some lightly spicy bits.

Many people liken Xinomavro to either Burgundy or Barolo and I can see the comparison, which surprises me. Partly because I am still doubtful about my own palate and partly, I have shamefully to admit, that I expected this to be a bit rough. Prejudice; never a good thing. Mea culpa.

At 14% abv it is quite weighty, but it has good acidity and smooth tannins too, making it likely to be capable of ageing well and me regret that I opened it only two years after the grapes were picked. There is an obvious resolution to this problem and as I do seem to visit this particular supplier regularly perhaps I can 'lay one down' as rude schoolboys and genuine wine people might say.

There is a profile of the grower, Apostolos Thymiopoulos, on the Wine Society's site which explains his adherence to biodynamics and what the French would call Lutte Raisonnee, the practice of using natural remedies to pest control such as guinea fowl to combat locusts rather than chemical sprays. Based on the contents of this one bottle it would seem that the extra care taken in the production of his wines is rewarded by the results.

The back label recommends drinking this with a rich beef stew, but I chose to open it alongside a lamb kleftiko and enjoyed both very much. Having read about the grape variety I was curious to find out more about kleftiko. I am glad I did as the name has its root in history with a 'kleft' being a Greek bandit and the name being particularly used to describe an independence fighter, either from the Turks in the 15th C, or from the war of independence between 1821-8. You see? Wine can be a great educational facilitator. Yes, it can.

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