Sunday 14 September 2014

Cabernet Franc

The One gave me a present, on the occasion of our fourth wedding anniversary, of a silver wine bottle stopper engraved on the top with the words 'Life is a Cabernet'. (The connection being that four years' marital bliss is traditionally celebrated with a gift associated in some way to fruit and flowers.) It's a nice play on words and a nice thought, but is also a conundrum. Which Cabernet?

I would suggest that, generally, when most people hear 'Cabernet' they expect that it is an abbreviation for 'Cabernet Sauvignon', the world-dominating red grape from Bordeaux. But this week we are tasting not that vinous globe-trotter but one of its parents.

As with most living things Cabernet Sauvignon has two parents, but what is something of a surprise is that while the parent providing the first name is a red variety, the surname comes from a well known and equally world-dominating white grape, Sauvignon Blanc. Which one was the pushy parent, I wonder?

But enough the spouse and precocious progeny, step forward the red parent, take your place under the spotlight and give us a song.


Week C (2014) Santa Rita '120' Cabernet Franc, 2013. Majestic £8.99.

Cabernet Franc, like its famous daughter, is one of classic Bordeaux grapes. Easier to ripen and more tolerant of lesser vineyard sites it now continues to play its part in the recipe for Claret alongside CS, Merlot, Petit Verdot and very occasionally, Malbec. But like Malbec, which emigrated to Argentina, it has found more success away from the family farm. In the case of Cabernet Franc is has moved successfully to the Loire valley and also further afield to various new world sites.

This week's choice comes from the Santa Rita vineyards of Chile's Central Valley.

It is a soft, fruity, easy drinking red wine, with flavours of red fruits (did someone say Raspberry?) and it has a smooth texture with silky tannins and well-balanced acidity. It has 13.5% abv, but this is not too noticeable and certainly couldn't be criticised for being 'hot' (a winey term for too alcoholic). There is a floral quality that I like and a flavour that I recognise as Cabernet Franc but can't describe anymore helpfully than that. Sorry.

I tasted this over a couple of evenings and it retained its freshness overnight and had possibly opened up a little (became more flavoursome) by the return visit.

The brand '120' is a reference to a bit of history from the struggle for Chilean independence in the early part of the 19th C, when following a hard day's struggle a band of 120 patriots took refuge in the estate's cellars. As with Week E (2013) and Week H (2014) we again find an historical link between red wine, courage and heroic behaviour. That's enough encouragement for me and I will do what I can to ensure I don't risk letting the side down, should the time come, by not having put in the necessary preparation.

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