Sunday 19 April 2015

Hallett Vale

I had the pleasure this week of spending Friday at the Oval cricket ground where the International Wine Challenge has its home. I was acting as an associate judge on a panel of five that was led by a Master of Wine, no less, and included a Portuguese wine maker and an importer who also specialised in Portuguese wines. Care to guess what the first flight of the day comprised? Yup, red wines from Portugal. The stress that put on this particular associate with aspirations to be promoted made for an interesting start to the day.

In homage to my more experienced colleagues I have selected not a Portuguese wine, but an Australian wine made with a distinctly Portuguese grape.


Week H (2015) Hallett Vale, Touriga Nacional, Barossa Valley, 2013. Tesco £11.99

Touriga Nacional is one of the principal grapes used in the production of Port and this wine bears some similarity with that lovely drink. Port is, of course, fortified with grape spirit before the fermentation has converted all the grapes' sugar to alcohol and, as a consequence, left sweet and strong. Usually around 20% abv. This wine is dry, and a modest 13% abv. Modest, that is, in comparison both to Port and to most Australian red wines.

It is an intense ruby colour, and has a pronounced blackcurrant nose. It tastes of rich black fruits, plums and licorice, has velvety tannins, well integrated acidity and alcohol, and a full, almost chewy, body.

In some ways it is a fairly typical Australian wine, in that it is a 'big fruit' style, but the choice of grape variety makes it interesting. Australia is known for Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, but there are a great many other varieties grown. Touriga Nacional is not the most common by any means, although there is perhaps a reason that it can be found.

For many years, most Australian red wine was produced in a Port style, that is, fortified and sweet. Touriga Nacional, being famous for its role in Port may have been a reliable choice to plant in the knowledge that it lends itself well to that particular style.

The winemakers at St. Hallett have been working with this variety for 35 years and that is when the boom in Australian wine production and export was getting into its stride and we should I think be grateful that they didn't grub up the Touriga in favour of planting the more fashionable and predictable grapes that soon dominated the vineyards.

My first formal class in wine tasting was led by a gentleman with a preference for Portuguese wines and Touriga Nacional featured more than once in the first few classes. So I raise my glass in thanks for his help in starting me on such an enjoyable hobby. Cheers, Mike.

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