Sunday 26 April 2015

Ice Wine

You say Eiswein, I say Ice Wine, otherwise is doesn't count as an I.

At the International Wine Challenge on the last day of medals week, the panel to which I had been admitted as the associate judge finished its duties with a short flight of two wines. Both Ice Wines and both European. One silver medal, one gold.

As the medals have not yet been announced I don't know if this week's choice is a winner in the competition, or not. But is does come from the same country and of made from the same variety as the gold medalist.

Week I (2015) Ernst Triebaumer Eiswein, Rust, Burgenland. 2012. Uncorked £19.95 37.5cl.

The country in question is Austria and the grape variety its most famous and nearly unique Gruner Veltliner.

Gruner Veltliner is quite fashionable as a dry white wine, having performed well in blind comparisons with some top white Burgundies. It is tangy and herbaceous with a spicy character and ages well.

But this is not a dry wine at all. No, this little chap has somewhere around 200 g/l of residual sugar, compared to maybe 5 g/l for its dry friend. We are definitely in late harvest territory here, very late indeed. However, the makers of Ice Wines don't just leave the fruit hanging for an extended period before picking to wait for concentrated sugars and fruit ripeness, they have another trick up their sleeve.

The clue is, of course, in the name. The fruit is picked in winter, usually very early in the morning, on a day when temperatures have dropped below freezing and the grapes themselves are frozen. The fruit is crushed and the frozen water components of the juice remain in the press, resulting in a grape must with more concentrated sugars and phenolics (flavours).


The result, in this case is an inviting golden yellow with aromas of honey, peach and barley sugar. It is luscious, thick and spicy-sweet with all kinds of flavours from caramelised pineapple to light maple syrup. It has a long satisfying finish and is altogether excellent. Not cheap, but then not something you would drink every day, so worth it as an occasional treat.

As I said earlier, I don't know if this was our gold medal winner and can't find out for another couple of weeks, but I won't be surprised to find that it is. If it isn't then perhaps Herr Triebaumer would be well advised to enter the competition next year.

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