Sunday 17 January 2021

Chablis

The weather has not been too kind of late and this, together with the mixed news about the current Coronavirus pandemic, where numbers of infections, hospitalisations and deaths continue to increase, but where programmes of vaccinations are gathering pace, and the more severe restrictions on recreation which are keeping golf courses closed, are making January this year pretty challenging.

There is a balance to strike between staying mentally strong and using the opportunities afforded by almost unlimited time at home to take care of tasks usually found to be uninviting, or using that time to indulge in the pleasures that are often denied through commitments to people, place and time such as eating drinking and trying to be merry.

Not wanting to turn an interest in and enjoyment of wine into a dull-minded habit, or worse, I am trying to be selective about my consumption and strike that elusive balance. This has influenced me more towards brown spirits as my evening treat, as I find a small glass of malt whisk(e)y or a drop of Armagnac is more easily taken in the singular (albeit an approximate double measure), but a nice bottle of wine once opened has an irresistible allure. 

This week's selection came in gift form as part of a complementing pair, its red partner being an Haut Cote de Beaune as yet unsampled, from a generous sibling and is a good example of a bottle that called me back until it could call no more.


Week C (2021) Domaine du Colombier, Chablis, 2018. £18.95 Winedirect.

 Made from the 100% Chardonnay, that versatile and universally popular grape variety, Chablis is famous throughout the world as a region responsible for one of the greatest dry white wines. Whilst Chardonnay can produce a wide range of flavours, with its fruit flavours becoming more tropical as the vineyards are closer to the equator from both directions, Chablis is typically described as being steely, mineral, crisp and exciting. I found that to be true with this bottle. There was a hint of apple with some warmer peach-like tones and perhaps some citrus flavours in the end, but none of the ripe pineapple type flavours or buttery feel that styles from warmer regions provide.

We opened it to accompany a meal made from the inevitable left over Christmas turkey, but most of it disappeared aperitif style later in the evening, by which I mean without food unless you count the peanuts.

The wine had been aged for 18 months before release and I think it was ready to drink. Had it been from the higher tiers of the Burgundian hierarchy, such as Premier or Grand Cru, then leaving it a little longer may have rewarded the patience, but I think this was made to be enjoyed whilst young and fresh. And indeed it was.

When I buy white Burgundy I tend to choose wines from the Macon sub-region mostly because I find them to be reliably enjoyable and also good value for money, but it is nice to have been reminded through this kind gift that pushing the boat out a little can be worthwhile, but perhaps best kept for those times when the wine will be drunk to be appreciated. Wines whose principal role will be to take the dull edge off the interminable searching through Netflix to find something more uplifting than infidelity or murder, can be selected from the less expensive shelves.

Will I buy again? This style, yes. Chablis, definitely. This particular wine only if its in front of me when I decide its time.

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