Sunday, 24 January 2021

Dolcetto D'Alba

Being something of a big kid at heart I had been watching the well-informed local weather forecasts provided by Chiltern Weather Alerts (search on Facebook for their page if you are from these parts) in the last week because we were being promised, with increasing confidence, that we would get to enjoy some snow. The Chilterns always offer great walking opportunities but at this time of year when the trees are bare of leaves a good covering of snow makes the whole place look like Narnia.

In preparation for the long had winter we took ourselves off to King's Farm Shop who are a first rate butchers near to the World's End (no, really, look it up). Whilst spending more on a few bits and pieces than we did for the whole of our Christmas lunch I spotted this on a shelf near the pie counter:

Week D (2021) Emilio Vada Dolcetto d'Alba DOC 2018. King's Farm Shop £21.95

The young chap who was busy selling me a couple of pots of Wild Boar pate (French, naturellement) and a delicious cheese, leek and bacon quiche, advised me that if my meat bill came to more than £50 the wine would be reduced by a fiver. This was not a problem. The two fillet steaks we had already chosen got us halfway there and the Ox cheeks and short ribs finished the job nicely.

I have had mixed success with Dolcetto and just under seven years ago I chose it as the wine of Week D (2014) where I found it a had some volatile acidity that spoiled my enjoyment. I won't retype my typings any further here, but if your are inexplicably interested you can click on the link and have a butchers. (Quite pleased with that bit.)

I am happy to report that the snow arrived and our trip to Narnia was hugely enjoyable as we shared it with a couple of very good friends. This was, of course, executed with the greatest care and respect for the conditions set by our leaders to help us survive the plague. This sharpened the appetite nicely and the fillet steaks, pan-fried in garlic butter, topped with mushrooms and served with braised red cabbage and mange-tout was a treat. No potatoes again, but you can't have everything because it's not good for you. Says Nanny.

The wine was, I thought, very pleasant. The first taste was very North Italy, being relatively light-bodied and fragrant, but left me wondering if my long-forgotten experience should have been remembered at the point of purchase. Not because of any volatile acidity but because in a way that is slightly reminiscent of my recently described history with Barolo as I had been expecting something a little more richly fruity. The One didn't accept the offer of a top-up, and that suggests it didn't hit the spot for her, however, my second taste was alongside a mouthful of that beautifully cooked (you're welcome) fillet and my concerns evaporated.  The bottle outlasted the meal and so I enjoyed the rest with some charcuterie and an episode of a Swedish murder series set near the Ice Hotel where The One and I spent a very enjoyable sixth wedding anniversary. Small world.

Would I buy again? Probably not. There are styles I prefer more for the price.

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