Mount Impey

I spoke too soon. The Russians have invaded Ukraine and suddenly the world feels a little less settled. Things like this put unnecessary amateur wine blogs into perspective and I feel slightly foolish as I start to type this nonsense, but not doing so would have as much positive impact on the situation as all the other empty gestures that are about to become plastered all over social media, so with apologies to those whose lives are about to become much worse:

Week I (2022) Mount Impey Sauvignon Blanc 2020. Tesco £12.

It's another New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. We had one about a month ago and that was good, so what is different about this one? 

I essence, it is quite similar to Week E (2022) but less intense. Not less enjoyable, which I thought it might be as I had found the previous wine benefitted from its citrussy intensity, but definitely more subtle.

I had found the Spy Valley wine enjoyable and moreish because of the flavorsome punch it packed and I fine this one enjoyable because it was nicely balanced. It makes me wonder whether about the extent to which personal circumstances, mood and attitude influence the impression of pleasure that is gained from any given bottle.

Those whom promote and believe in the benefits of biodynamic agriculture tend also to think that there is merit in following the biodynamic calendar to assist with the selection of wines that will taste their best on given days. This calendar is used to influence when particular tasks associated with planting and managing all manner of crops, not just grapes, to get the best results. It is based on astrology and as such should be a load of bollocks, however, I have read in creditable sources (creditable but unmemorable, it turns out, so I can't provide references) that the debate has moved on from 'does it work?' to 'how does it work?'. Could it be that may enjoyment of different styles of sauvignon blanc depend on the day on which I tasted them?

Did I enjoy the Spy Valley wine with its prominent fruit because I tasted it on a day when the moon was in one of the 'fire' constellations, making it a Fruit day? (Aires, Leo & Sagittarius.) Had it have been a Root day (moon in earth  signs: Capricorn, Taurus & Virgo) would it have left me dissatisfied? There are also Flower days and Leaf days, but you get the point. Do I care? not really. I am happy to say that these two wines are different and I enjoyed them both for different reasons.

Buy again? Maybe; probably not.

Hautes-Cotes de Beaune

There are some nasty rumblings in the news about the intentions of the Russians and a potentially disastrous conflict with Ukraine. Hopefully this is all 18th century style sabre rattling and good sense will prevail. Doesn't bear thinking about too much, but it does encourage the enjoyment of life's small pleasures whilst they are easy to come by. Here's one example:

Week H (2022) Bichot Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2019. M&S £16.

Despite being a self-proclaimed fan of Pinot Noir I have to date only selected one red Burgundy as the wine of the week and I find myself wondering why that might be. I have selected Pinot Noirs from various parts of the globe but only the wine from Irancy in Week I (2015) which fell in that year's October, making it around six and a half years ago. Nearly a year ago, Week T (2021) I chose a Pinot Noir from New Zealand and at that time had a bit of an unstructured rant about the prices demanded for Burgundy, especially at the premium end, so it could easily be that I am a bit stingy (and I don't mean like a wasp. English is a tricky language).

This week I have found a reasonably priced Burgundy, some would say a cheap Burgundy, and so I thought I would give it a go.

It is labeled 'Hautes-Cotes de Beaune' and this is where it is helpful to understand just a little bit of how the French like to imply meaning in their labels rather than simply spitting it out, which would in any case be a waste. Unless you are at a posh tasting or attempting to judge 100 wines before lunch. More digression, for which I apologise. 'Hautes-Cotes de Beaune' tells us a few things. Firstly, the wine is indeed from Burgundy. Secondly, that it comes from the western slopes a little way from the core part of the Cote d'Or, the limestone ridge that forms the backbone of the entire region, between the village of Nuits-Saint-George and the town of Beaune, and is therefore a generic regional wine, rather than coming from a specific site. Those wines tend to be the more expensive examples, so that helps with the price.

It confirms that it has been made from Pinot Noir as other red grape varieties are not permitted, but it could include up to 15% of either Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris, both of which are mutations of Pinot Noir, but it probably doesn't.

Ok, cork out, what have we got? We have a very pleasant, medium boded wine with quite a bit of charm and delicacy. There is plenty of the expected red fruit, a little spice and a gentle complexity that makes it interesting and enjoyable. It has a typical light ruby colour and a silky texture. The alcohol is not excessive, at 12.5%, and is integrated well with the predominantly redcurrant flavours. Some of its softness is likely attributable to it having spent 10 months in oak before release.

Buy again? Yes.

Garganega

We are already six weeks into 2022 and heading quickly towards a series of family celebrations of varying significance, from a 15th wedding anniversary, through an old man's birthday and on to a younger lady's 30th. You could add tomorrow's Valentine's Day, and the fondly remembered massacre, but that may be a step too far.

Meanwhile the Six Nations championship is underway and we now only need someone to beat the French and then it's anyone's game. Except Italy's. It would be nice to think that they may, one year, come second as they deserve better luck. Italy has contributed greatly to the world over the centuries (what did the Romans ever do for us?) In disciplines from science to culture, from music to wine, such as:

Week G (2022) Monte Tondo Foscarin Slavinus Soave Superiore, 2015. £14?

This is the last of the six bottles I was given in return for my semi-informed comments on the benefits of wine made from old vines. All of them came from Soave and we're all made with Garganega.

Soave comes from the Veneto region in the North-West of Italy, where Garganega is said to be at its best, and can include contributions from Trebbiano and Chardonnay, but this one is 100%. 

As with other Italian wines Soave has a few tiers of classification. Today's example is from the historical heartland of Soave and, therefore, labelled 'classico'. It also has about 1% more alcohol (at 13.5%) and so also gets to be called 'superiore'.

Compared to the five previously consumed bottles this one on first tasting had a hint of oxidation, which I don't believe would be intentional. Being six years old it could be more that tertiary flavours have developed misleading this reviewer. It certainly has a deep golden colour and nicely concentrated apricot and honey tones. There is also something flint-like in the finish.

It is very enjoyable and benefits from being given attention, as to glug this in an unthinking way would be to miss out on what it offers. 

I don't know what a bottle would cost, if it were available, but found '14' written on the bottle in the type of white ink often used in smaller wine merchant's shops and guess it must have meant pounds sterling. That seems a very fair price for a better than average white wine. 

I have read that Garganega also grows in Sicily where it is known as Grecanico Dorato, but have yet to encounter one of these. It would be interesting to know if the probably warmer climate of the southerly island would bring out any difference in character. I shall most likely never know.

Buy again? If I ever find any, yes.

Fleurie

I was reminded of a friend and former colleague as I was scanning the wine wall this week who, about 15 years ago, had a Friday night habit of celebrating the end of the working week with a pizza and a bottle of Fleurie. He was then, and is now, a keen triathlete and I find that encouraging as his habit can't have done him too much harm. If I ever consider a return to distance running I will be sure to put in a good few Friday suppers as part of my training. Meanwhile, I will raise a glass to Ricky with:

Week F (2022) Fleurie 2020. M&S £10.

It seems hard to believe now, but in 2006 I did take part in the London Marathon. I completed it, too. My training was more based on Guinness and pork scratchings and that might explain why it took me 2.5 times as long as the winner to complete the course. Fleurie and pizza next time. Probably without the marathon. Or any running at all.

So. What is this Fleurie of which I speak? It's from Beaujolais, the wine region to the south of Burgundy and to the north of The Rhone Valley, where the principal grape variety is Gamay. Fleurie itself is one of the 'Cru' villages, of which there are ten, known for producing the better regional wines on the western slopes of the Saone valley where the south-easterly aspect and good drainage provide ideal conditions.

Wines made from Gamay are usually lighter styles and have low tannin levels, so it at the other end of the spectrum from Primitivo, Malbec and other blockbuster grapes. The wines of Beaujolais also derive some of their characteristic flavours from the use of a production technique known as carbonic maceration. This involves putting hand-picked grapes into a large fermentation vessels that have been flushed with carbon dioxide, to remove oxygen, and allowing the weight of the grapes themselves to crush those lower down in the pile. As the juice is gently pressed out of the berries and it begins to ferment, more carbon dioxide is given off as a by-product of the conversion of the fruit sugars to alcohol and this further protects the juice from undesired oxidation.  

The resultant wine has light redcurrant, cranberry and floral flavours, sometimes reminiscent of bubble gum. If this last element is allowed to over develop it can lead to a wine that has a confected profile which has in the past given Beaujolais a less than glowing reputation.

My first mouthful of this wine caught me by surprise and I was concerned that there may be a little too much acidity but, once it had opened up post-decanting, I enjoyed this wine.

Buy again? One day. It's pleasant, but there are styles I enjoy more.