Sunday, 13 February 2022

Garganega

We are already six weeks into 2022 and heading quickly towards a series of family celebrations of varying significance, from a 15th wedding anniversary, through an old man's birthday and on to a younger lady's 30th. You could add tomorrow's Valentine's Day, and the fondly remembered massacre, but that may be a step too far.

Meanwhile the Six Nations championship is underway and we now only need someone to beat the French and then it's anyone's game. Except Italy's. It would be nice to think that they may, one year, come second as they deserve better luck. Italy has contributed greatly to the world over the centuries (what did the Romans ever do for us?) In disciplines from science to culture, from music to wine, such as:

Week G (2022) Monte Tondo Foscarin Slavinus Soave Superiore, 2015. £14?

This is the last of the six bottles I was given in return for my semi-informed comments on the benefits of wine made from old vines. All of them came from Soave and we're all made with Garganega.

Soave comes from the Veneto region in the North-West of Italy, where Garganega is said to be at its best, and can include contributions from Trebbiano and Chardonnay, but this one is 100%. 

As with other Italian wines Soave has a few tiers of classification. Today's example is from the historical heartland of Soave and, therefore, labelled 'classico'. It also has about 1% more alcohol (at 13.5%) and so also gets to be called 'superiore'.

Compared to the five previously consumed bottles this one on first tasting had a hint of oxidation, which I don't believe would be intentional. Being six years old it could be more that tertiary flavours have developed misleading this reviewer. It certainly has a deep golden colour and nicely concentrated apricot and honey tones. There is also something flint-like in the finish.

It is very enjoyable and benefits from being given attention, as to glug this in an unthinking way would be to miss out on what it offers. 

I don't know what a bottle would cost, if it were available, but found '14' written on the bottle in the type of white ink often used in smaller wine merchant's shops and guess it must have meant pounds sterling. That seems a very fair price for a better than average white wine. 

I have read that Garganega also grows in Sicily where it is known as Grecanico Dorato, but have yet to encounter one of these. It would be interesting to know if the probably warmer climate of the southerly island would bring out any difference in character. I shall most likely never know.

Buy again? If I ever find any, yes.

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