Hautes-Cotes de Beaune

There are some nasty rumblings in the news about the intentions of the Russians and a potentially disastrous conflict with Ukraine. Hopefully this is all 18th century style sabre rattling and good sense will prevail. Doesn't bear thinking about too much, but it does encourage the enjoyment of life's small pleasures whilst they are easy to come by. Here's one example:

Week H (2022) Bichot Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2019. M&S £16.

Despite being a self-proclaimed fan of Pinot Noir I have to date only selected one red Burgundy as the wine of the week and I find myself wondering why that might be. I have selected Pinot Noirs from various parts of the globe but only the wine from Irancy in Week I (2015) which fell in that year's October, making it around six and a half years ago. Nearly a year ago, Week T (2021) I chose a Pinot Noir from New Zealand and at that time had a bit of an unstructured rant about the prices demanded for Burgundy, especially at the premium end, so it could easily be that I am a bit stingy (and I don't mean like a wasp. English is a tricky language).

This week I have found a reasonably priced Burgundy, some would say a cheap Burgundy, and so I thought I would give it a go.

It is labeled 'Hautes-Cotes de Beaune' and this is where it is helpful to understand just a little bit of how the French like to imply meaning in their labels rather than simply spitting it out, which would in any case be a waste. Unless you are at a posh tasting or attempting to judge 100 wines before lunch. More digression, for which I apologise. 'Hautes-Cotes de Beaune' tells us a few things. Firstly, the wine is indeed from Burgundy. Secondly, that it comes from the western slopes a little way from the core part of the Cote d'Or, the limestone ridge that forms the backbone of the entire region, between the village of Nuits-Saint-George and the town of Beaune, and is therefore a generic regional wine, rather than coming from a specific site. Those wines tend to be the more expensive examples, so that helps with the price.

It confirms that it has been made from Pinot Noir as other red grape varieties are not permitted, but it could include up to 15% of either Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris, both of which are mutations of Pinot Noir, but it probably doesn't.

Ok, cork out, what have we got? We have a very pleasant, medium boded wine with quite a bit of charm and delicacy. There is plenty of the expected red fruit, a little spice and a gentle complexity that makes it interesting and enjoyable. It has a typical light ruby colour and a silky texture. The alcohol is not excessive, at 12.5%, and is integrated well with the predominantly redcurrant flavours. Some of its softness is likely attributable to it having spent 10 months in oak before release.

Buy again? Yes.